Ladies and Gentlemen, on the Windshield — Norway!
An overnight stay near a cemetery; a moose’s near miss; a trash rally; the eternal anticipation of a fine.
I can’t understand how it happened, but I found myself yearning for a thermal shirt and winter hat instead of the seaside sun this summer…
Well, actually, I know.
Just take a look at this.
So, on June 31 — I cast a sad glance at my trunks and pack my hat into my backpack, which closely clings to my back every day, but will soon be a corner fixture in the car trunk.
Both Lisa and I, as well as Nadia, Phil, and Dasha, decided to tread Norwegian soil and donate blood to Norwegian mosquitoes. As usual, we didn’t bring anyone else — there just isn’t room in the car.
Phil and Dasha had already been photographing strange sculptures in Oslo for three days, waiting for us there, while Lisa was working as a photographer in Iceland and would fly from there directly to Norway, and Nadia and I were dully heading towards Scandinavia, unaware that we would be sleeping outside the airport in Wroclaw during a transfer. In the blink of an eye (in fact, it was more like 10,000 blinks—we boarded the plane, flew, disembarked at the Norwegian airport, retrieved our luggage), we rented a car and awaited Lisa’s arrival, coffee in hand.
And now a part of the text that not everyone could read, would I be a car nerd, but instead—everyone will manage.
It’s best to rent a car with a reservation. Doing it in advance saves money. We rented from Budget. We opted for the minimal insurance included with the rental car price. They offer several types of insurance:
“pay us very little and worry about every scratch,”
“pay a bit more and worry a bit less,”
“pay a fortune and wash a horse in it if you like, or listen to Seroff all day—we don’t care.”
We chose the first option. In the end, all was well. But when we scraped the bottom, I turned pale; thinking it was a plastic bag, but it turned out to be a metal object that struck us several times underneath— I turned blue. And when we descended from a precipice, rolling down on the roof and blowing up from beneath, I realized it was not my memory but a movie, perhaps Rumpelstiltskin.
Moreover, Norway is a country with very high fines for traffic violations. The lightest fine is for driving without headlights on; in Norway, they must always be on. This is to give Norwegians the illusion that driving beetles bring joy. Or exceed the speed limit, even by a kilometer. The entire road is strewn with surveillance cameras equipped with automatic ticket issuing features. Each rental car has a transmitter of information and so on. Afterward, it’s just a matter of causing an infraction, and eventually, you’ll get a penalty. Oh, I read all this information thoroughly, and I remained in endless anticipation of such a miracle. Right? Think and anticipate these facts in the article since I anticipated fines for long after the trip.
The main advantage the summer north provides to a traveler is the length of the daylight, bound only by human needs (unfortunately, sleep must sometimes occur). While the white nights also promise endless sunsets, Norwegian weather does not gift such souvenirs too often, favoring clear, if only occasionally, skies instead. But in the rare chance it complies, be prepared.
Let’s set the record straight in the phrase “the practical part of the journey.”
We spent a week in Norway. We purchased one piece of baggage for the five of us. It held tents, sleeping bags, and food (Dasha and Phil had the freeze-dried meals, while we had various cereals). It’s worth noting that if you plan to embark on more-than-average active traveling in the near future, you should start gradually acquiring cool camping gear, which, regrettably, costs a lot. Yet, it helps save backpack space significantly and dramatically increases the comfort of experiencing nature.
We haven’t managed to keep up with Phil in acquiring this gear—he has mats the size of matchboxes, a tent with the dimensions of a needle eye, and a kayak as big as a kayak (it remains unpurchased yet). In short, many of his items are of downsized proportions. Our camping items, however, have the appropriate sizes matching their respective categories. But we invested in inflatable mats, and it’s pure bliss! Even slightly unnerved by the realization of sleeping on one’s breath. But it’s softer, more comfortable, and warmer. Hence, folding dishes, nanomats, and tents, super-light sleeping bags, stoves with radiators, thermal clothing, and trekking shoes—not merely expensive trinkets, but incredibly useful things that unmistakably redefine modern tourism.
Also in the luggage were two stoves (we bought the canisters on site) and two packs of excellent coffee ground for the Aeropress (may you be hallowed, Aeropress, your will be done). We took warm clothes in the carry-on, shoes, and of course, the Aeropress itself.
In broad strokes, this was the setup that let us affordably gallivant in one of the world’s priciest nations. And the “willingness and unpretentiousness” should be stashed in a pocket. It ultimately is a week of sleeping in a hat—fit for a niche.
Let me say right away that considering the country’s high cost, we spent very little (about 100 euros per person for food and fuel/toll roads/ferry). It’s way less than we hoped to spend, and much less than we feared spending. The main expenses were gas and toll roads, plus the ferries across the fjords. We spent precisely zero on accommodation and no more on food than we would at home. What can I say? The very reason to journey to Norway—the mountains, fjords, glaciers, forests, waterfalls, rivers, and moose—is all here for about nothing.
Once again confirming that in expensive countries, you usually spend less than anticipated. You’re forced to find ways, to think about the rationale behind each expenditure. So take note!
Close this material part with the summary—some savings, some trips to Nepal that got canceled with purchased tickets. The most exquisite lies ahead! The crumbs of memories that stayed with us almost a year after the trip.
A DAY THAT IS NOT—THE FIRST
After meeting Lisa, we got into the car and headed toward Oslo, where Phil and Dasha awaited us. Nadia gazed out the window, Lisa navigated using Maps.me, and I was drenched, trying to comprehend some of the signs whizzing past at 80 km/h. On the road, the first camera—I checked if our lights were on, smiled, hoping a smile would sweeten the experience if a fine came through the mail with a penalty figure.
The crew gladly greeted us in Oslo and delivered the cheerful news that the weather forecast for the coming week was rain, fog, and cold. I perceived these three words as fine, fine, fine. I couldn’t think of anything else due to my tendency. Like in the Babkin song—”hid and doesn’t breathe,” I studied the car, rules, and driving manners. Phil sat upfront, and I asked him to guide me out of the city. Serving as a navigator, the girls behind (let’s shortcut the names) discussed the Oslo park with sculptures, while upfront, I asked Phil questions: straight here? left here?
As it happened, if Phil and I were given the riddle: “four wheels and rolls,” we would answer—two bicycles. That’s our closest vehicle type. Therefore, Phil wasn’t versed in proper road guidance, and I wasn’t versed in its proper interpretation. Hence, the “turn left” directive was taken literally, realizing something wrong when people attempted to board our vehicle like a bus. We stood on a road designating access only for buses or trams, surrounded by two-side curb segments with passengers. A bus stood ahead, barring further progress. I tried reversing quickly, but the tram behind pressured forth. Our vehicle was ensnared in a trap of shame. The folks found nothing better than a hearty laugh in unison. I, too, later laughed. Only after envisioning the combination: fine-license suspension-jail-death penalty-removal of all my stand-ups from the web. The bus moved, and we left without taking anyone in, even for money. But a clear thought lodged in my head: Fine number one.
Having exited the city, I felt relief. We cranked up the music (unlike the Iceland trip, where Icelandic radio with hassles enchanted us with songs played by a dwarf violinist, we preloaded beloved tracks on a flash drive and downloaded in AppleMusic) and made our way to the first stop.
Considering the remaining half-day, we planned to immediately start progressing northward, intending to trail a small trek to Kings view and find our first night’s stay.
The delightful website VisitNorway states that King Carl Johan strolled this path in 1832, and the thrilled Norwegians decided to name the viewpoint in his honor. The path was named quite literally after Carl Johan’s stroll on it in 1832. The view is indeed quite impressive, perhaps befitting royalty.
The little track itself is very pleasant, not demanding, meandering through a picturesque forest and ferns, with signposts of wisdom and life tips sprinkled by Norwegians as a delightful bonus.
The best thing to do at Kings View is to brew coffee. And that’s precisely what we embarked on, brewing coffee to the tune of the relevant song. Here are its lyrics — enjoy, please.
Sta…rting… to brew coffee,
Starting to brew coffee,
Starting to brew coffee,
Startiiiing to brew coffee…
The elongated daylight is undoubtedly wonderful, but there should be moderation. Skirting the beautiful forest, we acknowledged Norway gradually revealing her essence as we descend to the car.
We made a brief stop at Kiwi supermarket, renowned for its free Wi-Fi, got some shopping done, lounged a little in networks, and set off to find a camping spot.
Thank goodness for the Right to Roam (Allemannsretten), which since 1957, is a vital part of Norwegian law.
quote: “You may camp or sleep under the open sky anywhere in nature, except for cultivated fields and roadside parking areas intended for cars. You can stop for the night no closer than 150 meters from the nearest inhabited house. The so-called 150-meter rule also applies to camper vans and trailers. If you wish to stay more than two nights in one place, consent from the landowner is required, except in the mountains and remote areas.”
In other European countries, we wouldn’t just take our tents and settle in any appealing spot (maybe we could, but it would be illegal). And campsites aren’t sometimes the economic pleasure they seem to be. For instance, in Iceland, one night in a campsite near Reykjavik required a 30 euro fee per person (you just sleep in your tent, with maximum outdoor support of just +5).
Thus, camping with tents in Norway is an excellent choice. It’s worth utilizing such wonderful legislation.
Truthfully, the choice of a campsite for the first night wasn’t ideal. We stopped in a very damp forest, planning to commemorate our first overnight with a shared tea session, but it concluded swiftly upon the arrival of swarming mosquitoes attacking from all angles. Additionally, it turned quite cold, and we decided to disperse into our tents, cursing Mr…mosquitoes from within. We fell asleep with unspoken fears that mosquitoes are merely a standard element of the local ecosystem and perhaps the main reason behind the Right to Roam law (controlled by mosquitoes, and after your second night, you’ll be pleading for a hotel).
THE SECOND DAY — WHICH LOGICALLY FOLLOWS THE FIRST, AS THE THIRD ISN’T HERE YET.
On the first full day of our road trip, we drove extensively, adapting to lonely red houses and roadside diners akin to Twin Peaks, lavishly adorned with deer antlers, and with an endless refill of strong black coffee.
I’ll continue to drag you from Norwegian charm with bureaucratic recollections. Approximately at this point in the journey, a settled demeanor reached me, realizing I drove beneath a camera without headlights. Penalty number two in my mind.
Passing through the first accessible National Park, we decided to cover some on foot and traverse part of a popular Norwegian hiking trail called Besseggen. Our backpacks contained a thermos of tea, a pack of M&M’s, sardines and crispbreads, along with a free parking ticket for two hours, a windbreaker, and bodies free from pain arising from constant driving.
Norway deserves praise for its trail arrangements, almost an art form. At the trailhead stands a small café, doubling as a tourist information point, a very clean and charming restroom, equipped parking, and an informative board about the area and trail. Information on history, distances, heights, weather, and necessary gear, as well as rescue services contact details, can all be found here.
As we climbed higher, Norwegian weather’s rough realities began manifesting—sudden shifts from wind to snow, brief sunshine before dark clouds enveloped it again, greeting us with hail!
We enjoyed some snowy slides (classics right? See snow in the summer—how can one resist?). Eyeed the athletic Norwegians, whose whole families strolled the trails. We met a tourist with a dog. Ultimately, hiking is a cherished pastime for Scandinavians. As they say, they live for weekends to stroll up and down the mountain at a brisk pace. We covered about a quarter of the trail, admiring Lake Gjende’s icy-glacial blue from different viewpoints.
Illustration “Phil and Sneakers in The Mountains.”
We took breaks along the path, hiding behind rocks against the wind, and when it became quite annoying, we decided to grab a snack (sardines with crispbreads), hidden behind a rock—and descend to the car. The trail is generally not difficult and beautiful, but it’s recommended to start early morning as the full track consumes an entire day.
As we still aimed to accumulate considerable kilometers, we loaded ourselves into the car and, motivated by excellent tunes, proceeded further.
Overall, this journey was designed (or rather, barely designed) in a way to leave enough room for improvisation (nearly entirely). We roughly outlined route directions, read about Norwegian tourism nuances in general, and left the rest to chance, implying the whim of the weather.
Within the car, roles distributed as follows: I drove the car, Nadia, and Dasha photographed little houses with their little mirrorless cameras, while Lisa and Phil inspected Maps.me for intriguing stops along our way.
For instance, the attraction named “Knight’s Leap” piqued our interest. We drove there. According to legend, Knight Sigvat, fleeing with (inevitably) a beautiful damsel, leapt across the River Sjoa at a surprisingly narrow leap-worthy canyon section. A decent leap at that. Narrowing eyes cleverly, we surmise that this is a tall tale, or the prince had mighty legs or a long strong pole, or a pocket-sized trampoline.
Along the road, we spotted a moose standing by the roadside in the rain and then disappearing into the woods.
Next, we saw numerous waterfalls, minimalist Norwegian churches, and several rainbows as we journeyed through and out of purplish rain clouds.
We stopped at KIWI—froze for 20 minutes handling internet affairs, acquired food (if selected carefully, absolutely affordable options are available). Chose our camping spot carefully to avoid another mosquito cloud sleepover, and indeed it proved unnecessary. We found a cozy nook beside the road, enveloped by pines, large rocks, and waterfall sounds. Although the waterfall wasn’t visible, it undeniably roared nearby.
We set up our tents and had a quite civilized dinner, even at a proper table, drank tea, and settled into a somewhat chilly but beautifully cozy sleep graced by the sound of the waterfall and rarely passing cars.
THE THIRD DAY — NOT THE FOURTH, DESPITE WHAT YOU MAY THINK.
The following day entailed a significant transfer—we intended to reach the farthest northern point of our journey (the city of Kristiansund), beginning our descent from there.
Making a stop-off for coffee at the most Norwegian of roadside cafes, adorned with deer antlers and chalk-white Norwegian children as an embellishment.
As Norwegian wisdom declares — “the further north, the more rain.” We realized that fully. The rain began drizzling after lunch, and we didn’t react much, making lovely little stops near solitary churches, waterfalls, and particularly picturesque mountain peaks accentuated by low clouds.
Suddenly, behind us, a strong honking began, followed by a flashing siren. Blue and red colors penetrated the vehicle’s interior. I glanced at the rearview mirror. A car, adorned in garlands, followed us. On its roof were flashing lights and plush bears. We barely had time to study the car before it sped past, honked, and vanished. All Right.
In often wetted rocky shapes, the visage of a troll often emerged—sometimes jovial, bearing a long nose and surprised expression, or grim and bulky—with broad shoulders and a narrow forehead, sometimes bearing a strong human resemblance—stop right, turns out those are people.
In general, Scandinavian folk tales and legends are a topic unto themselves. These dark mountains teem with trolls, the rivers and seas with wondrous aquatic beings. This doesn’t surprise, as the local landscape, especially under ideal lighting, births vivid imagery; nature’s unpredictability assists in fueling imagination’s journey. Trolls, the yutuls, fear sunlight and are static forever, missing the fleeting moment sunlight grazes their mammoth physique. Locals know which troll and why it allowed such grievous a fatal mistake.
Nota Bene: let’s pause for a stellar nod to the Norwegian illustrator Theodor Sevrin Kittelsen. Here’s a great suggestion: to imbibe Norway deeply, to widen the experience, get acquainted with his wake. And “Peer Gynt” before heading to Norway. Also, of course, sagas about Thor, Loki, giants, and beasts. And let’s avoid continuously being bookish, throw in “Hilda,” a atmospheric animated film into this mix. Surely, other gems exist, but our background leans in this direction.
Trolls, elves, and varied creatures undeniably nestle smoothly into this region. True, they’ve mingled into the souvenir industry, yet their warm acknowledgment resonates everywhere in Scandinavia.
As we drive, our observations mostly form as follows—see the grand-nosed troll hidden behind the waterfall, and lo, a hand emerges from the mist!
As we approached Kristiansund, the rain turned intolerable, and only proper music helped endure the frantic wipers—the soundtracks to Twin Peaks or “Clouds” from Ivanushki International. Someone’s song carried from outside. Glancing at the side mirror, I saw a car approaching, featuring a rooftop inflatable Santa Claus and blaring music from speakers. The vehicle overtook us, followed by an entire convoy of similarly uncanny vehicles. What was this?
Kristiansund revealed itself to be highly unwelcome. Gray, cold, and very rainy. Only vividly colored flower beds and houses lent artificial friendlies to this place. The maximum brief stroll we allowed ourselves in this town was hardly enjoyable.
Most city buildings emerged post-war, in modernist styles, painted in various shades. Now it’s regarded as Norway’s opera cradle, yet we didn’t explore this city facet (days upon days without washing, opera notwithstanding). We also bought a large unspecified fish steak amongst us all, but it turned out exceedingly oily and unappetizing. Landing an unpalatable fish in a city celebrated for its fish-processing industry defied odds. We washed hands in a puddle, glanced at the persistent clouds spelling far-off rain cessation—and decided to flee before any dry spots disappeared on us.
Warmed by dryness and hot tea in the car, we bolted toward the Atlantic Road—one of our trip’s standout highlights.
Throughout the day, we encountered strange road vehicles, embellished in varied styles, old, colorful, forever honking and misbe(having) on the roads. But in Kristiansund, a convergence of such vehicles occurred near a certain bar. Upon reading the sticker “Carbage Run,” we googled (though we didn’t exit the car, maximum ‘departure’ into phones).
Carbage run—an automotive run across European countries using old cars worth no more than 500 euros and aged above 15 years. This run originated in the Netherlands, 2008, beginning with 64 cars. Currently enjoying much popularity, the Scandinavian route traverses Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, lasts 5 days, and exists in both summer and winter formats.
People embellish cars in unusual items, odd trash, stylizing them adroitly, followed by a fixed route drive, creating revelry, pausing at different points and gathering in iconic bars on the way. If you’ve read Chuck Palahniuk’s “Rant: An Oral Biography of Buster Casey”—this presents the kind of impression such a gesture leaves. Combined with torrential rain, low clouds, and unending greenery—it appears exceedingly cinematic.
We dearly hoped rearriving at the Atlantic Road meant the rain and wind subsided to allow enjoyment of the place, proper strolling, appreciating unique road architecture, and maybe spotting a whale or seal, photographing, and enjoying coffee with a splendid view of the Atlantic.
As you see—no.
Maybe coffee here wasn’t had, yet labeling a trip down the Atlantic Road as dull or lacking atmosphere isn’t justified. Wind, rain, ocean spray, the road leading to nowhere, honking bizarre vehicles from the trash run with instantly smudging light beams from raindrops…
The official Norwegian tourism site assures that “The Atlantic Road experience will give you memories for life.” These might not be the memories we anticipated before traveling, but they’re undoubtedly for life.
Our further primary task was—depart the rain or find an alternative nighttime arrangement. It clearly wasn’t an option to install tents on rain-soaked ground during continuing rain. Therefore, we drove, enduring a highly humid car interior and substantially stiff legs.
I.long.length.drove.
The rain pressed on
Driving persisted
10:00 PM
Driving
Rain
Entered some cottage-type campsite, requested the grandad for fivesomely sleep in a double-bed cottage in our sleeping bags. Just to be under a roof. Grandad didn’t bat an eye. These weren’t his issues. Alright, moved on.
Began casting glances at scattered structures, bridges and shelters.
But our shelter awaited after another hour of driving.
Imagine a desolate area, rain, the white night, a church with a small graveyard at the rear and an abandoned stable a little way off.
This stable captured our eye and eventually our tents.
An exceedingly ideal dry place, minimally draughty, perfect for both sleeping and dining to the sound of rain and musings of a maniac in a black Cadillac, living dead, and a crazed moose trampling over our tents by night.
Yet we fell asleep rather quickly despite all this, sleeping reasonably soundly. The next morning, even without breakfasting, we swiftly packed up, rejoicing at the temporary rainbreak, and sped towards our first ferry crossing. The most picturesque leg of our journey unfurled as I commenced writing the second part.
Good thing I avoided saying the most visually pleasing segment awaits in the second half—you likely wouldn’t read this one. Damned, maybe you start reading from the end. If so, I’ll write to you—this section is prettier than the other—you must read it! Naw, might stop you from the second half now. Bah, anyway! See you next text!
Anticipate in the following installment:
- The most beautiful fjords of Norway
- How a booking.com scant scheme affected our sleepover
- A fearsome tunnel at 2:00 AM
- An incredible glacier and stunning overnight by the lake
- How many days can one endure without showering, dodging depression
- A rock instead of a frying pan following Bear Grylls’ advice
- The song best fitting the travel vibe
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